Amanda Del Duca Surveys Fall’s Fashion Campaigns
JEWELRY BY LAUREN G. ADAMS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID LUNDBLAD.
With fall around the corner, it’s time to weigh in on the season’s 2012 fashion campaigns. One of my favorite pastimes is creating magazine collages to surround my vanity. I love to get caught up in an image that inspires me.
It’s important to embrace those images, as a reminder of what I love right now and am feeling. Working in fashion and preserving my love for it can be a challenge if I don’t take the time. For years, a big part of my “personal time with fashion” has been spent tearing out pages of current issues to add to my wall. It’s therapeutic. I never understood preserving copies of magazines. There isn’t a single issue in my apartment from which I haven’t torn out or folded a page.
The 2012 fashion advertisements have hit the Internet and are ready to be consumed. Here I choose my favorites, spot trends and give details about the locations, inspirations, photographers and models involved.
Starting with the best, here are my top picks.
Lanvin’s fall ad campaign is all about range. The clothes themselves go from luxe and regal to muted and punkish. Then there are the images’ arresting subjects. The campaign features “real” men and women (not professional models), ranging in age from 18 to 80. Creative director Alber Elbaz said, “It’s about bringing a sense of reality to fashion to show that the lofty world of high style is not as unattainable as it seems.” Casting agent Zan Ludlum found 82-year-old Jacquie “Tajah” Murdock through the popular blog Advanced Style. Street scouting discovered the other ten models, including one of the older males who was spotted walking out of a basement bar in New York’s East Village. The campaign was shot by Steven Meisel in New York and Ronnie Cooke Newhouse and Stephen Wolstenholme of House + Holme provided creative direction.
This campaign hits a home run ultimately because of the message. In an industry that dotes on the too young and indulges in too much Photoshop, it’s refreshing to look at something relatable that is done with grace.
“In high fashion we’re always accused of doing things that are not very relevant, not the real world. It’s important sometimes to do fantasy, but I felt like touching people and going back to different women and men, especially the idea of different ages and body shapes,” Elbaz told CNN.
This is the first Louis Vuitton campaign that has maintained the exact ambiance of its corresponding fashion show. On March 8th, creative director Marc Jacobs presented the Fall collection from a custom train car attached to a steam engine that pulled up to the Louvre’s Cour Carrée in Paris. One by one, models deboarded, accompanied by porters, creating an incredibly cinematic and romantic statement about travel and the heritage of Louis Vuitton.
To continue the runway journey, the Louis Vuitton Express was reconstructed in all its exquisite and extravagant detail in a New York studio. Amazing levels of craftsmanship and attention to detail were deployed to re-create such a compelling scene.
“All of these glamorous travelers have an imaginary voyage in their head, which is wonderfully captured by Steven Meisel. I cannot think of anyone who could pack a train with so many beautiful young women and their porters, and still make the ambiance feel light and romantic,” Jacobs said.
With ten models and their porters, it’s a glamorously packed house. Not to mention the collection’s elongated A-line silhouettes that are topped off with Stephen Jones’ squashed hats that add a good six inches of height. Then there is the luggage: Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram canvas is mixed in with the season’s new sequined Wooly Paillettes, the black-and- white leopard and the spectacular Transsibérien, with its jewel buckle and dip-dyed goat hair.
The decadent campaign takes top honors for the sheer level of skill on display. Merely for the lightness with which photographer Steven Meisel showcases the beautifully ornate and layered collection, this campaign takes the cake.
While narrowing down my favorite 2012 Fall campaigns, certain trends popped up that lend themselves perfectly to categorization.
The first and most amusing trend I noticed is the use of stuffed animals in heavily nature-driven campaigns—most noteworthy being Mulberry and those adorable monsters. American model Lindsey Wixson fronts the Mulberry F/W 2012 ads, which are inspired by the popular children’s book Where the Wild Things Are. Shot by Tim Walker in England’s Blackheath Forest, the textured campaign conjures lovely fairy-tale visions. Uniqlo x Undercover also tapped Walker for a whimsical portfolio featuring giant insects and instruments.
For 2012 Fendi and Roberto Cavalli, larger-than-life beasts aren’t present, but the fantasy-like surroundings seem worthy of the company. Karl Lagerfeld captured the beautiful Joan Smalls in Chianti, Italy, dressed in long-hair furs and surrounded by olive and cypress trees. Photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin also chose a stripped-down, natural scene for Cavalli. The campaign features model Daria Werbowy in prints that act as a glamorous camouflage in the trees and brush.
Similar campaign locations and oversized props were big trends this year, but the biggest trend is found behind the lens. Photography team Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott slayed the competition for total industry domination. The wonder team shot many of the biggest brands in the business: Tom Ford Beauty, Stella McCartney, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Brian Atwood, Miu Miu, Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2 and Calvin Klein are among those Mert and Marcus captured this season. My standouts are a returning Chloë Sevigny for Miu Miu after fronting her first campaign for the brand ten years ago, and a stunning Amber Valletta for Emilio Pucci. Mert and Marcus’ creativity and use of color is unmatched.
Where some fashion trends take me to a place of fantasy and admiration, others just leave me thinking, Huh? One that eludes reason is a certain hairstyle seen in two campaigns. I call it the “off-bob,” because it’s the most off-looking bob I’ve ever seen. Can you imagine this style growing out? Scary.
The last trend is more of a decor sort. In what I’m naming the “best use of a sofa” category, the honors go to Jill Stuart and Ferragamo. Random furniture in campaigns is usually just that—random. But these two paired interior design and the collections flawlessly. In Salvatore Ferragmo’s Fall 2012 ads, which were shot by Mikael Jansson in Berlin’s Russian embassy, Kate Moss is a striking beauty gracefully lounging in a mint leather dormeuse. Jill Stuart’s Fall campaign stars Beegee Margenyte, shot by Mario Sorrenti in a Virgin Suicides, 1970s household vibe. The pale-blue sofa against the feminine collection and smoky makeup is perfect.
So here’s to a fuzzy and fantastical fall season. I’m envisioning mine with vibrant colors à la Mert and Marcus.
Notice any trends of your own? Share your favorite ads and top picks in the comments section below.
For more style info from Amanda Del Duca, visit capturefashion.com
TAGS: Akris Fall 2012, Alber Elbaz, Amanda Del Duca, Amber Valletta, Beegee Margenyte, Chanel Fall 2012, Chloe Sevigny, Daria Werbowy, Dsquared Fall 2012, Emilio Pucci Fall 2012, fall fashion 2012 campaigns, Fendi Fall 2012, Inez and Vinoodh, Inez van Lamsweerde, Jacquie "Tajah" Murdock, Jill Stuart Fall 2012, Joan Smalls, Karl Lagerfeld, Kate Moss, Lanvin Fall 2012, Lindsey Wixson, Louis Vuitton Fall 2012, Marc Jacobs, Marcus Piggott, Mario Sorrenti, Mert Alas, Mert and Marcus, Mikael Jannson, Miu Miu Fall 2012, Mulberry Fall 2012, Roberto Cavalli Fall 2012, Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2012, Stephen Jones, Steven Meisel, Tim Walker, Uniqlo x Undercover Fall 2012, Vault magazine, Versace Fall 2012, Vinoodh Matadin